Stouts, porters and dark seasonals. What's the difference? How do they taste?

Location: Snow bound and able at last to catch up with blog writing!

Moodmusic: Dressing an Orkney crab having tasted porters and seasonals aplenty

Todays memories and soundbites

Christmas came and went and thanks to friends, family and the seasonal beer trend in local pubs, there was a mighty haul of the darker ales which are my favourite style of all.  But, I tend to get confused about what the differences are between a stout, a porter and a dark winter ale.  I just know how to drink them and enjoy them! So what makes them different?  Well it seems that there is plenty of discussion about whether or not stouts and porters are actually any different from each other.  As Wikipedia puts it "their history is intertwined".  The difference between stouts and porters also seems to be one of the most often asked beer related questions typed into Google, and there are plenty of answers.  The most comprehensive and well researched accessible story probably comes from the beer writer Martyn Cornell's blog. Basically, back in brewing history, stout began life as a stronger variety of porter, with porter being considered of better quality and being the generic brew.  But, over the centuries, stout has became the most widely brewed and enduring recipe, particularly as it went on to be mass produced (e.g. Guinness), and changed to become sweeter and meet modern tastes.  So by the post war period, roles were reversed such that stout was considered to be the generic brew and porter now looked upon as a type of stout.  The Whitbread recipe books (some of these old formulas are still available) show that recipes were very similar at one point in time, with a divergence coming during the mid-nineteenth century.  The main difference between stout and porter, as the table below shows, relates to the amount of wort drawn off a given quantity of malt: less water was used for mashing stouts so they would be stronger.

Source: from Ron Pattison's blog - http://barclayperkins.blogspot.co.uk 

So coming along to the position today, we see that the traditional distinctions between the brews which originated in the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries are no longer in keeping with what is being produced by contemporary breweries   Porters and stouts today don't really differ in terms of ABV and both can be weaker or stronger. Perhaps there is a more general difference in the pattern of flavours and tastes.  By and large, and critics still argue of course about whether it is legitimate or relevant to characterise things this way, stouts are sweeter to taste, a bit more bitter/dry to finish, with porters being slightly more complex, and more roasted.  One thing is for certain though, and that is both stouts and porters are coming back by popular demand, and more are available now than have been for a long time.

So, how then, having bottomed out the mystery of stouts and porters, do winter dark ales fit into the picture .... if at all??  Sometimes, for me and my palate at least, there seems to be some overlap. Most winter ales are "ruby" in nature, but some are even darker and more porter-like in style.  Winter ales are also called 'old ales' and 'strong ales' because they too generally have a higher alcohol content as a stout might have.  As I explained in my Christmas beer blog, winter ales have a long tradition in Britain, some recipes going back a few hundred years, they are seasonal beers which are higher in alcohol (typically 6-10%), sweeter, and more strongly flavoured with perhaps more dark and black barleys above the base of pale and amber malts.  They are a traditional answer to manage the cold, wet short days of winter and revel in the various winter festivals of December.

Differences between stouts, porters and winter ales

I suppose the next topic to raise is the ever growing variety of stouts and porters, just as confusing! There are hybrid styles coming onto the market now too, with different brewing traditions in different countries using different approaches and ingredients for products being labelled with the same style.

Popular varieties of stout and porter

So here's my list of those stouts, porters and winter ales I've tried so far this winter. They range in flavour and ABV strength, and in ease of availability.  I can only comment that I didn't ever meet a darker ale I didn't like!

Drinks ....... it's a long list this one ....

STOUTS

1. Wye Valley, Dorothy Goodbody's Wholesome Stout (4.6%)
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Emotional: A straight yummy yummy mummy
Critical: Full bodied warming and rich stout with smokey chocolate and coffee flavours all rolled up together. Full texture too. Very enjoyable.

2. Brains, Jack Black, Oatmeal Stout (4.3%)
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Emotional:
Critical: Light and easy to drink. Lots of chocolate malt. Carbonation lifting everything. Nice warm toasted malt aftertaste.

3. Marstons, Oyster Stout (4.5%)
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Emotional: Not an oyster in sight!
Critical: A great easy drinking stout, fairly well carbonated, with a medium degree of flavour treacle hints. I like to drink this with lavabread, mackerel, or kippers! Nothing better in my world this beer and food combination.

4. Whittingtons, Stray Cat Stout (4.4%)
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Emotional: I liked this. Plain but good.
Critical: I’m not sure if I am allowed think it tastes very much like Guinness  There is a very strong toasted malt flavour that finishes in a bitter roundness. The texture is velvety when you allow the strong carbonation to settle and produce a thick head.

5. Yeovil, Stout Hearted (4.3%)
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Emotional:
Critical: Mild textures and flavours, although somehow makes me think Porter rather than Stout in overall character.  Rounded, small malt, vague taste of milky chocolate at the finish.  Pretty refined.

6. Desnoes and Geddes, Dragon Stout (7.5%)
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Emotional: Better than imagined ....
Critical: A light and carbonated stout which is a little bit on the sweet side for me. Easy drinking for a beginner of dark beers.

7. Whitstable, Oyster Stout (4.5%)
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Emotional: I'm a fan.  Give me more!
Critical: Smokey toasted mocha coffee flavours. Lovely texture smooth and satisfying. Medium bodied with just the right amount of carbonation. Made me crave some smokey seafood alongside.

8. Rhymney, Dark (4%)
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Emotional: Surprising!
Critical: This is really quaffable and very enjoyable. Medium bodied, light carbonation, very chocolate malt as the predominant flavour with hints of vanilla and coal smoke. Nice one!

9. Belhaven Black (4.2%)
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Emotional:
Critical: Thin off white head. Rounded flavour and medium body producing a mild stout which is easy to drink but perhaps a little low on complexity or strength of taste.

10. TSA, Glencoe Wild Oat Stout (4.5%)
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Emotional: Smoooooooth
Critical: It has a lovely smooth and velvety texture. A gentle flavour, slightly toasty and smokey, but a little more doughy, with slight vanilla.

11. Hunters, Black Jack (6%)
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Emotional: Crikey!!  and Good Grief!!
Critical: Goodness this stout has pineapple juice in it!  The juice makes it light and very drinkable with an elderflower flavour - no hint of pineapple to taste. Stout style malts and vague coffee build up with every mouthful.

12. Brains, Original Stout (4.1%)
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Emotional: Sturdy, steady stout. I know where I am with this.
Critical: Lots of chocolate and vanilla, with medium roast.  Light malts.  Easy drinking.

13. Williams Brothers, March of the Penguins (4.9%)
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Emotional: OK .... more of that thanks
Critical: Medium bodied, smooth texture, head thinnish. Tastes of toasted roasted malts, chocolate and liquorice. Interesting and worth getting again.

14. Cairngorm, Black Gold (4.4%)
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Emotional: Yummy ..... we love winter!

Critical: Sweet and comforting malts breaking into stronger molasses and then finishing with a hint of chocolate.

PORTERS

15. Samuel Smith, Taddy Porter (5%)
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Emotional: Not bad!
Critical: Dark and moody. Toast and roasted coffee. Thick liquorice, after hints of chocolate. Smokey dry bitter finish. Very interesting.

16. Wickwar, Station Porter (6.1%)
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Emotional: Nice one!
Critical: This was a light and airy porter, lively carbonation, with a host of flavours starting with slightly smoky chocolate vanilla malts and finishing with a dry shortbread biscuit.

17. Tomos Watkins, Cwrw Gaeaf (4.7%)
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Emotional: I think this is a Porter even though its not listed as such
Critical: Great colour, ruby red, nice head, and an immediate grainy, doughy, malty warmth and depth.

18. Box Steam Brewery, Funnel Blower (4.5%)
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Emotional: Fantastic!!
Critical: Pours to give a deep head, and a bit of treacley aroma. Carbonation medium to give an easy to drink pint. Flavors begin with toasted rye bread, and break into bourbon vanilla and smooth chocolate. Ends with clean bitterness.

19. Celtic Experience, Celtic Dark Age (4%)
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Emotional: Described as a mild in style I thought this more of a Porter which is why I place it here.

Critical: Not bad at all! Lots of velvet texture, loads and loads of chocolate malt (yumyum) which has hints of vanilla, and then toasty caramel and hints of strong coffee on the finish.

20. Williams Brothers, Midnight Sun (5.6%)
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Emotional: Fantastic!!
Critical: Great beer. I love this smooth texture, rich flavours including a hint of spice and gingerbread. Clean finish with a bit of roasted cereal to end.

WINTER, DARK and OLD ALES



21. Brains, Dark (3.5%)
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Emotional:I liked this.

Critical: Lovely dark colour with smooth cream head. Medium bodied, toasted malts with hints of chocolate and hazelnut. Short crisp finish.

22. Hunter's, Full Bore (8%)
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Emotional: NICE! VERY NICE!
Critical: High alcohol content, but neither too sweet nor too heavy. Had this with Christmas dinner, so went well with rich meat and heavy fruit pudding! Echoed the raisins, slight hints of treacle, but also a nice bitter edge and clean bitter finish.

23. Robinsons, Old Tom (8.5%)
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Emotional:
Critical: Hailed as a great ale, this is very enjoyable. Rich and mellow with hints of fudge and barley wine. Clean ending.

24. Robinsons, Tom and Berry (4.6%)
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Emotional: Like drinking a very upmarket chocolate bar
Critical: Nice and chocolatey with really strong delicious berry fruits.  I thought this was great but others may find the fruit too much.  Not sure this is a session beer, could end up being too cloying.

25. Old Diary, Snow Top (6%)
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Emotional: Bloody fantastic!!
Critical: Rich, complex flavours, very full bodied with deep plum fruitiness hidden below barley wine richness, finishes with bitter citrus hops, and the tiniest hint of chocolate.

26. Traquair, Bear Ale (5%)
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Emotional: Surprising!

Critical: The aroma is really inviting of warm kitchens and bread making. The flavour is rich and surprisingly dry and bitter to finish. A solid bitter ale. Likely to sneak up and thump if used as a session.

27. Otter, Otter Head (5.8%)

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Emotional: Close your eyes and hum mmmmmmmmm

Critical: It has to be the quality of the water filtered down through sandstone that gives this beer such a great crystal clean flavour. Chocolate bitter sweetness and barley wine warmth and depth. Quite a sharp green hop citrus ending that lingers on the palate. Quick to make you squiffy!

28. Orkney Brewery, Dark Island (4.6%)

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Emotional: Worthwhile

Critical: Lovely smooth texture, velvety and comforting. Lots of doughy yeast and malt with a feint flavour of Horlicks. Finishes with plumby fruit.

29. Whittingtons, A Winter's Tail (5.1%)

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Emotional:  I liked this.

Critical:It’s not the most amazing old ale style beer, but it can pack a punch because it is easy to drink as a session beer. A little bit hazelnutty, little bit of bitter chocolate.